When I worked in the city sewer department our 20-foot x 20-foot sump station was flooded with sewage during a pump repair. What a crappy mess! You don’t ever want to experience that. So, consider getting a Zoeller sewage pump that you can depend on.
I really like all of the Zoeller brand pumps. Each pump is factory tested before being boxed. Which means that some boxes are stained from the testing fluids that drip out of the pump. So, don’t let bother you.
Table of Contents
6 Zoeller Sewage Pump Comparisons
Most home owners buy the 1/2 HP Zoeller 267-0001 sewage pump, which is a good choice in my opinion. Especially when compared to the 4/10 HP Zoeller 264-0001 pump which is the same price with less pumping capacity.
Most homeowners will only need the !/2 HP sewage pumps versus the 1 HP pumps that a business would use.
Zoeller Sewage Pump Float Switch Comparisons
The most popular choice is not the best choice for a sewage pump in my opinion.
The 2-pole vertical float switch that is directly attached to the sump pump is the most popular. It comes with the Zoeller Waste-Mate 267-0001, Zoeller Waste-Mate 267-0006, and Zoeller 264-0001 models.
When the float switch needs replacement, the pump must be removed and disassembled. The process is fairly simple and can be a DIY job. However, you are dealing with cleaning up a lot more raw sewage than the alternative.
The alternative is the Zoeller piggyback float switch. This is a tethered float switch that is completed separate from the Zoeller sewage pump.
It is very easy to use and replace. This is a tethered switch with a float ball at the end of the cord. The cord is attached to the discharge pipe. Whatever length of cord that hangs below the pipe clamp determines the on and off set points for the pump.
Once the float is attached to the discharge pipe, plug it into an electrical outlet. Then plug the power cord for the Zoeller sewage pump into the back side of the float’s electrical plug. That means you are only using one electrical outlet.
For most sump pumps I do not recommend the tethered float switch because it needs more room to operate within the sump basin. Also, it can get tangled up in the other power cords. However, when dealing with raw sewage, easy replacement far outweighs any other consideration.
So, seriously consider buying the:
½ HP 115-volt Zoeller Waste-Mate 267-0002 model. Add the Zoeller 10-0055 Switch-Mate Piggyback variable level float switch. Shown below:
- Zoeller Waste-Mate 267 is a heavy-duty submersible sewage, effluent, or dewatering pump with 1/2 HP
- Ideal for residential & commercial use; Passes 2″ spherical solid waste with plastic impeller
- Switch-operated sewage pump with a 2-pole mechanical switch & non-clogging vortex impeller design
- Durable cast engineered construction utilizes ASTM Class 25 cast iron for switch case & pump housing
- Constructed in the USA with a limited 3 year warranty
- Piggyback float switch
- Mechanically activated with heavy-duty contacts
- Directly controls non-automatic pumps
- Not sensitive to rotation or turbulence
The 1 HP Zoeller BE270 Waste Mate. This is a great choice because it comes with tethered float switch. This 230 Volt pump saves operating money because it operates at 7.5 amps vs 15 amps for the 115-volt pumps. Shown below:
- Type: Automatic
- Phase: 1
- Horse Power: 1
- Material: Cast Iron
- Voltage: 230v
1 HP Zoeller sewage pump model 270-0002. It operates at 115 volts and 15 amps. Also, buy the Zoeller 10-0705, Switch-Mate Single Piggyback Variable Level Float Switch with the 20-foot cord. Shown below:
- 270-0002
- Cast Iron Submersible / Effluent Sewage Pump
- Made By Zoeller
- Country Of Origin: United States
- Converts nonautomatic pump to automatic pump
- Simple installation
- Adjustable/variable level
- Float constructed of durable PVC/polypropylene encasing variable level switch
- Designed for effluent, sewage and dewatering applications
Alternative Zoeller Float Switch Choices
You can use the Zoeller vertical piggyback float switches shown below for a Zoeller sewage pump. However, they are limited to the on/off set positions. Whereas the tethered switches can provide for longer run times that prevents short cycling of the motor.
The longer run times will run the motor less often which lowers the amount of heat produced by the motor. That will greatly lower the chance of the motor burning out before it dies of old age.
Also, longer run times mean that the switch will last longer before it dies.
- Application: Plumbing
- Position: Normally Open
- Material: Polypropylene
- Voltage: 115v
- Max Temp (F): 140F
- Converts nonautomatic pump to automatic pump
- Simple installation
- Adjustable/variable level
- Standard 15′ and 20′ SJOW CPE cord with molded plug
- Float constructed of durable PVC/polypropylene encasing variable level switch
- Converts nonautomatic pump to automatic pump. Standard normally open (NO) ‘pumps down’
- Simple installation. Optional normally closed available (NC) ‘pumps up’, consult factory
- Adjustable/variable level. Maximum operating temperature for 10-0748 is 120°F (49°C), all other switches 140°F (60°C)
- Standard 15′ and 20′ SJOW CPE cord with molded plug. Float is omnidirectional (no ‘up’ side)
- Float constructed of durable PVC/polypropylene encasing variable level switch. Includes mounting clamp
Check Valves Are Needed For Sewage Pumps
A check valve needs to be placed just above the sewage pump. It prevents the sewage that remains in the discharge pipe from refilling the sump basin with sewage that has already been pumped.
It is quite common that the amount of sewage in the discharge pipe is enough to make the pump start running again. That is called “short cycling” which will burn out your motor very quickly.
Many check valves are quite noisy because of “water hammer” and you will hate them. So, be sure to get a quiet check valve. The one shown below, the Zoeller 30-0243 check valve fits a 2-inch discharge pipe.
Also, getting one that you can see into can enable you to see if the check valve is working properly. This isn’t a necessity but is nice to have. Yes, it is also very quiet.
- 1/2 lb spring “magically” eliminates water hammer
- Reduces motor and pump noise from plumbing system
- Designed for both horizontal and vertical usage
- Full-flow, non-clog design installation
- Durably-constructed PVC check body and compression end fittings
Final Zoeller Sewage Pump Thoughts
If you have a basement bathroom or you need to pump sewage to reach the city sewer line, you need a sewage pump.
If just pumping sewage out of the house the 1/2 HP Zoeller Waste-Mate 267-0002 is what you need.
However, if you need to pump the sewage any distance horizontally or over 10 feet vertically, you will need the 1 HP Zoeller BE270 Waste Mate
Author at Best Sump Pumps
The first time I helped to install a drain tile and basement sump pump system was 1978.
Since then I have worked for a city water utility where I worked with and maintained pumps.
My rental properties and personal homes all needed sump pumps.
As a modular home dealer/builder, those new homes needed sump pumps.
I put that experience to good use by providing reliable, useful, and practical advice on buying, using, and maintaining sump pumps.
